Pumori Expedition Spring- (7,145m)

We can reach the Mount Pumori Base Camp from Kathmandu - Lukla flight and then trekking via Namche Bazaar, Tengboche - Pheriche and Lobuche. Mount Pumori is situated at an elevation of 7145m above sea level. Our ascent starts from 5,300m. There is a beautiful small lake from where we can envision the smiling face of Mount Everest and Kalapatthar.

Camp 1: After walking for 3 hours of trekking takes us to Camp 1 or Advance Base Camp (5700m). You also have to cross 500m with an elevation of 40 to 65 degrees slopes. The Route to the peak is rocky with traverse, steep, narrow ridges, wind narrow ridges, some ice walls, and one tunnel climb. Ropes can be needed sometimes.

Camp 2: Camp 2 is located on a narrow bridge at an elevation of 6200m, so we do not need to fear of avalanches. There is an ice climb with 35-65 degrees above-5000m high and also the Ice walls, many crevasses, and the bigger avalanche danger from big seracs hanging from the shoulder of 6500m.

Now camp 3: Camp 3 is too windy and at the height of 6850m. Tibetan plateau can be seen from here. As there are many crevasses and ice walls, you need ropes to summit. After that there are two climbing ranges; one from Tibet side and other is from Nepal side. The later one is easier than former to Mount Pumori Summit (7145m).

Normal route: Normal route to Mount Pumori is easy because of which most of the expedition coteries climbed this peak via the normal route. Pumori basically is a quiet technical and difficult mountain for mountaineering so we suggest taking Sherpa guide to mount this peak.

At least 3 campsare necessary after the base camp to reach the summit. The base camp is situated just above Gorek Shep at the altitude of 5300m. Camp 1 can be set up at the height of 5650m after base camp.

Camp 2 should be set at the ridge after the phase at the altitude of 6,000m. The most technical part for this peak is around camp 1 and 2. Camp 3 should be set at the altitude of 6,480m, around the corner after the ridge. You can ascend the summit from the camp 3 to the top of Pumori.

South - West ridge: A very few climbers have climbed via this way as it is quiet tough and mechanical. This route follows directly from the top of Kalapathar and goes straight over the ridge nearly by 75 Degree. We suggest using the normal route for the Mt. Pumori for comfortable expedition than this route. Please check Himalayan Journal 1996 or American Alpine Journal 1997 for more information.