Pumori Expedition Full Board- (7,145m)

At first, taking Kathmandu - Lukla flight and then trekking via Namche Bazaar, Tengboche - Pheriche, and Lobuche we can reach to Mount Pumori. It is a beautiful mountain situated at an altitude of 7,145m. We should begin our ascent from 5300m, which is beside a beautiful small lake from here you can get a beautiful sight of Mt. Everest and Kalapathar at 5545m.

Camp 1: After walking for 3 hours you will reach camp 1 or Advance Base Camp (5700m). Then, you will have to walk a distance of 500m with an elevation of 40 to 65 degrees slopes. Mount Pumori consists of many rocks and mixed climb traverse, steep and exposed to wind narrow ridges, some ice walls, and one tunnel climb. Ropes can be needed frequently, sometimes.

Camp 2: Camp 2 starts at 6200m. As it is located on a narrow ridge we do not need to fear of avalanches. The next 400m, Is an ice climb with 35-65 degrees above-5000m high, is the Ice walls, many crevasses, and there is a big possibility of avalanche from big seracs hanging from the shoulder of 6500m.

Now Camp 3: Camp 3 is at the height of 6850m and it is too windy. Tibetan plateau is visible from here and you may need rope most of the time because of many crevasses and ice wall’s way to the summit. There are two climbing ranges; one from the Tibet side and the other is from the Nepal side after that. Nepal side is easier to Mount Pumori Summit than from Tibet side. Normal route: This is the easier route to conquer this peak so most of the expedition coteries climbed this peak following this route. We suggest for Sherpa support to reach the top of technical and difficult Mount Pumori as it is not easy as like that of other mountains.

3 camps are most after base camp to reach the summit. The base camp (5300m) is just above Gorek Shep. After base camp, Camp 1 is set up at the altitude of 5,650m, around the phase of Mount Pumori. You should set Camp 2 at the ridge after the phase at the height of 6,000m. Around camp 1 and 2 is the most technical part for this peak. Camp 3 should set up at the height of 6,480m, around the corner after the ridge. After Camp 3, there comes the ultimate peak of the mountain. It is a popular route for the mount Pumori Expedition.

South - West ridge: the Route from the South-West ridge is not that popular. Very few climbers tried this route as it is very difficult. It follows directly from the top of Kalapathar and goes straight over the ridge nearly by 75 Degree. We suggest you to use the normal route for the Mt. Pumori for the safety, comfort and success of your group. You can also check Himalayan Journal 1996 or American Alpine Journal 1997 for your further information.