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Makalu Expedition Autumn- (8,485m)

Mount Makalu Expedition. The fifth highest mountain in the world, Mount Makalu was first climbed by a French party in 1955. The peak situated at an altitude of 8485m was first mapped and photographed from the Tibetan side by the 1921 British Everest reconnaissance. Hillary and Shipton photographed Mt. Makalu in 1951 and approached the peak a year later, after the failure of their mount Cho Oyu expedition. The first attempt on mount Makalu was made in 1954 by a US team, who trekked all the way from the Indian border near Biratnagar. At the same time, a British team approached the peak, but could not succeed as Hillary became seriously ill and had to be evacuated.

In the autumn of 1954, a French team attempted the peak while the other three French teams made successful attempts in the following spring. The Japanese climbed mount Makalu in 1970 and a Yugoslav kissed the summit in 1975. Makalu West Face: To reach the top of the peak west face is both challenging and adventurous. There were five attempts before the successful Expedition. The West Face was successfully scaled in 1997. The Russian team had accepted the route of this West Face of mount Makalu upon the leadership of Sergey Efimov and climbed the top on the 21st of May via the most difficult route. The final part of the route had gone on Parago ridge. Alexei Bolotov, Yuri Ermachek, Dmitri Pavlenko, Igor Bugachevski and Nikolai Jiline were in the team who had climbed to the top of mount Makalu at this time for which they were awarded the "Gold ice-axe". The Routes (Four Parts) Bottom part of the route starts from the base of the West Face at 5,800 meters extending to the hanging ice-fall at 6100 meters to the right part of the ice-fall. The second part elongates from the plateau above the ice-fall along 35 to 45 degree elevation's rock up to the 6,500 meters height. The next part is an ice-rock wall, 50 to 55 degrees steep & extends to 7400 meters tall. The last section begins at 70 to 75 degree elevation's rock pillar, which leads to the west ridge at 8,000 meters till atop.

Typically, ropes are fixed from 5800m to 6100m and from 6500m to 7500m. Camps, established by the Russian Team can be seen here. The French Route on the West Pillar is an aesthetically stunning line that has been seldom attempted because it is the most difficult way with a very steep pillar that was first successfully ascended in 1971. The crux of the line comes at an altitude of 7,600m in the area of the Seignior Wall. The first US team to step on included Jim States, John Roskelley, Kim Momb, and Chris Kopczynski, who scaled via this west pillar in 1980. Furthermore, they topped on the summit, even without the use of oxygen or Sherpa support.

Trip Itinerary

04 Sept. 2024 Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu & transfer to hotel
05 Sept. 2024 Day 02: Preparing expedition Kathmandu, Nepal
06 Sept. 2024 Day 03: Expedition  briefing tourism  Department
07 Sept. 2024 Day 04: Fly to Tumlingtar and drive Num & camp
08 Sept. 2024 Day 05: From Num to trekking Siduwa and camp
09 Sept. 2024 Day 06: From Siduwa to trek Tashi goan & camp
10 Sept. 2024 Day 07: From Tashi village - Khumdanda & camp
11 Sept. 2024 Day 08: From Khumdanda-Tashidongma & camp
12 Sept. 2024 Day 09: From-Tashidongma-Yangle Kharka camp
13 Sept. 2024 Day 10: From Yangle Kharka - Yak Kharka -camp
14 Sept. 2024 Day 11: Yak Kharka to Makalu base camp –camp
15 Sept.-16 Oct. 2024 Day 12 - 43: Climb Mt. Makalu 8463m.
17 Oct. 2024 Day 44: Makalu base camp to Yangle Khark camp
18 Oct. 2024 Day 45: From Yangle Khark-Tashidongma -camp
19 Oct. 2024 Day 46: Tashidongma - Khongma Danda -camp
20 Oct. 2024 Day 47: From Khongma Danda to Num and camp
21 Oct. 2024 Day 48: Drive Num to Tumlingtar and guest house
22 Oct. 2024 Day 49: Fly to Kathmandu & transfer to Kathmandu hotel
23 Oct. 2024 Day 50: Transfer hotel to airport for final departure

Trip Cost

Expedition Cost: Minimum 6 persons
Per Person USD 12500

Trip Cost Includes

  • 4 nights 3-star hotel in Kathmandu with bed and breakfast
  • Climbing permit for Mount Makalu 8463meter normal route
  • Kathmandu- Tumlingtagar - Kathmandu flight with 30kg cargo 1 climber
  • Trekking; Num, Makalu B.C. with full board camping trek
  • 1 North face tent/similar 1 climber Mt. Lhotse base camp
  • Makalu base camp guide, Cook, cook helper, kitchen boy
  • Dining tent, shower tent, toilet tent, table, and chair in B. C.
  • Porter Num-Tashi goan -Makalu base camp & Num village
  • Life-medical- rescue insurance - Nepali staff, liaison officer
  • Expedition allowance liaison office, base camp Nepali staff
  • Solar panel for charging batteries, lights Makalu base camp
  • Caring bonus for climbing guide (base camp to till camp 3)
  • Airport – hotel-airport 2 times transfer in Kathmandu, Nepal
  • Welcome dinner Nepali with song and dance in Kathmandu

Trip Cost Excludes

  • Personal equipment for climbing
  • Emergency rescue evacuation
  • Climbing food, gas above BC
  • Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu
  • Tips for staff per climber USD 200
  • Personal expenses & fixed rope
  • Summit bonus for climbing guide
  • Radio Permit, walkie talkie permit
  • Garbage deposit USD 3000 (sharing of the total person) and deposit fee
    will be not refunded if the climbers don’t take back their garbage to base
    camp & Kathmandu.

Monterosa Treks & Expedition
P.O.Box: 4483, Thamel, Kathmandu, Nepal.
E-mail: monte@mos.com.np
Phone: + 977 1 4700348
Mobile: + 977 9851031674(WhatsApp)
Mobile: + 977 9801031674

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